Lesson 3- A Hat For All Seasons
that you have learned all about millinery supplies and how to measure,
you are ready to make your first hat. This simple cap has 5 variations
and can be adapted to fit any doll. Begin by following the instructions
to create a wedge shaped pattern piece. If you don't have a specific
doll in mind, you can use the pattern we include at the end of this
lesson. Directions are given for enlarging and reducing the pattern
to fit any size head. But we strongly encourage you to try and draft
a pattern FIRST before using the enclosed one. So get ready to have
This cap was
originally worn by 18th century workmen in the printing industry to
protect their hair while operating printing presses. It was made from
scraps of inexpensive muslin. By altering the fabrics and trims you
can make an exciting variety of hats suitable for both male and female
Goal - To
devise a pattern piece for making a 4 sectioned soft hat
- Recommended Fabric
- see individual variations
- Pattern pieces
1 section. The pattern is available in 3 formats. Click on option
below to print.
|Note on Printing
Correct Size Patterns... The
straight line across the bottom of the hat pattern should
measure close to 3-3/8". The Web Graphic will print
the correct size for most students but some computer systems
will print it either larger or smaller. The
PDF and Word files should print correctly for everyone.
When printing the PDF files make sure the options for "Shrink
oversized pages to paper size" and "Expand small
pages to paper size" are not selected (not checked)
in the Print window that appears when you click to print
page. If you need any help please contact firstname.lastname@example.org
- Tape measure
- Doll head
1. The first
thing we need to know about the wedge is the height. Use a
measuring tape to measure the doll's head (with hair) from
CF (forehead) to CB (nape of neck.) Divide this measurement
by 2 to determine height of wedge. Draw a vertical line this
length on a piece of paper.
2. The next
thing we need to find out is the width of the wedge at the
bottom edge. To find this, measure around the largest part
of the doll's head to find the circumference and divide by
4. Center a line this length at the bottom of the H line.
3. To shape
the top of the wedge we need to place a horizontal line halfway
down the H-line. This line should be 80% of the W-line. For
example, if the W-line is 2.5" long, multiply by .8 and
the centerline will be 2" long.
4. Now, all you have to do is connect the dots rounding
the top edge to complete the wedge.
5. This hat
has a turned up cuff that is about 1/3 the length of the H-line.
Extend the sides of the wedge down below the W-line as shown.
6. To give
this cap some ease because it is lined, we are going to add
a 3/8" seam allowance all the way around the wedge, but
when the pieces are sewn together a ¼"
seam allowance will be used.
7. Label your finished pattern piece with the doll's
name. Fold it in half along the H-line (to be sure it's symmetrical)
and cut out.
1. Cut 4 pieces of
hat fabric and 4 pieces of lining clipping the seam allowance at the
top of the wedge as shown.
2 sections RST to form half of hat, and press seam open clipping as
needed. Then sew 2 halves together, pressing seams open. Repeat for
3. Put hat and lining RST and sew around bottom edge leaving
1" opening for turning.
4. Turn hat RSO, press lower edge if necessary, hand sew opening
closed, then top stitch 1/8" from edge for a nice finish.
5. Turn lower edge up to form a brim.
and lining out of muslin and follow directions above. On step
5 decide how wide turned up brim will be, and sew around hat (sample
hat has line stitched at 1").
directions using one color velour for lining and one for cap.
After step 4, apply narrow trim to lining side of cap covering
stitching line. When brim is folded up this will be on the right
side. Stitch pompom to top of cap.
was very popular in the 1700's, and was usually made from wool
for warmth. Benjamin Franklin wore one to France as a diplomat.
The brim can be folded down to cover ears in cold weather. Often
a raccoon tail was added.
- Black wool and
- 16" of fake
fur trim, 4" wide
* When cutting fur, cut backing material only
- Fabri-tac glue
Follow directions above.
Cut a strip of fur about 1-1/2" wide and long enough to go
around hat, with fur going down. Fold down top long edge of fur
¼" and glue in place to the back. Fold up brim, stitch
fur to lining side, overlapping ends.
tail: Cut a piece of fur 2" x 4" for tail. Bring 4"
sides together and whip stitch closed. Gather bottom edge and sew
to top of fur band so it hangs down.
- Sparkly sequined
fabric for hat and lining
- Decorative button
- 1" wide decorative
trim which can be sewn or glued to bottom edge
basic directions. Sew trim to lining side of hat along edge,
fold hat up and sew hat and trim together along bottom folded
1. Sew hat and lining
together. Add fur band as for Canadian Cap. Tack brim to hat. Use black
marker to make flecks in the white fur to look like ermine.
2. Cut metallic trim in half to make two 6" pieces. (This
trim needs to be longer than finished hat so it can curve up and away
from crown.) Tuck ends into brim at opposite sides, criss-crossing them
at top of hat. Secure pieces at top of hat by hand stitching in place.
3. Cut shank off button and glue in place over metallic trim
at top of hat.
The Sky is the Limit!
Dare to be different.
Try cutting each wedge shape from a different color of fabric. Add
a tiny propeller on top. Make hat from two contrasting cotton fabrics
for a sunbonnet. This hat is as versatile as your imagination.
This course is the
foundation for our next online hat class "From the Inside Out - Creating Hats With Structure", Click HERE for more information and to register.
This free introductory
course is just that - an introduction. In "From
the Inside Out" you will learn to create over 30 hats,
along with trim techniques, variations, veils, etc. The class has 7 lessons,
lots of patterns, projects, and step by step pictures to guide you. We'll
look forward to having you join us on our hat making journey.
and Mary Ann